FX50S brake pad removal question?

most brembo/akebono designs dont require removal of the caliper themselves. I looked at a FX50 brake system but i dont recall 100% but i'm willing to say its no different from a brembo caliper as the viewing window of the pad is the same and the slot is large enough.
 
TurTLeG said:
most brembo/akebono designs dont require removal of the caliper themselves. I looked at a FX50 brake system but i dont recall 100% but i'm willing to say its no different from a brembo caliper as the viewing window of the pad is the same and the slot is large enough.
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That is what I was thinking. Not that its a huge deal, I can always take the calipers off in a cinch if needed. Will install my Redstuff pads on Saturday.

---------- Post added at 05:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ----------

Got the pads today and I can tell by looking at them that I can install with the calipers still on the car. I will update on the dust of these pads after I have a few days on them. The way these stock ones dust, it will be apparent in just a day or two.
 
+1, the fx50 bbk has sliding pins that's holding the pads. Once the pins are moved, the pads can be swapped. No real need for removing the calipers.
 
But don't you need to press the piston back in because the new pads will be much thicker. How do you do that without removing the caliper off the rotor?
 
la_fx35 said:
But don't you need to press the piston back in because the new pads will be much thicker. How do you do that without removing the caliper off the rotor?
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The pads and rotors are near brand new (less than 500 miles). Even if you had to, you can move the pistons out with a long screwdriver while protecting the rotor. Not a big deal but I should not have to deal with much piston retraction.
 
actually you will need a c clamp, when i worked on my friends 6 piston brembo it was really hard for me to press it back with a flat head screwdriver. Also sometimes one side of the piston goes in or compresses the other side comes out ( referring on the same caliper your working on). You got to do it slowly on eachm piston head
 
Dracula said:
actually you will need a c clamp, when i worked on my friends 6 piston brembo it was really hard for me to press it back with a flat head screwdriver. Also sometimes one side of the piston goes in or compresses the other side comes out ( referring on the same caliper your working on). You got to do it slowly on eachm piston head
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Working on caliper with multiple pistons on BBK, after I removed all the hardware holding the pad, I use the old pads to spacer and apply the C-Clamp on it so that all pistons on one side of the caliper would retract at once. Leave the C-Clamp there to hold them retracted while working on the other side of that caliper :wink (2):

Don't forget to place a piece of thick rag or wrap the ends of the C-Clamp with masking/electrical to prevent any "bite" marks on the nicely painted caliper :smile (2):
 
OK....this is just too easy! Remove wheel, remove two clips, remove two retaining pins, pull pads out, put new pads in (in my case, I did not have to retract the pistons) and perform reverse order! Front pads took 30 minutes, back pads will be done tomorrow.

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---------- Post added at 06:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:12 PM ----------

OH......and clean the caliper up while you are in there ;)
 
on top of the caliper that little rubber piece in your bottom shot; I noticed mine yesterday its all dried out and cracked and I get pull it off easily because of it. I wonder what caused that and/or if that is typically to replace at x amount of miles or x amount of years, or when changing out pads?

Post pics of your old pads...and any reason you kept your old rotors?
 
Hey roadracer, did you remember to lube up the sliding pins before putting them back on? They are a PITA to take out if not lubed. What pads did you go with?

jdTrader - It is recommended to change rotors every 2 pad changes unless the rotor has issues. Most people just change them both because of convenience
 
Tangerine said:
Hey roadracer, did you remember to lube up the sliding pins before putting them back on? They are a PITA to take out if not lubed. What pads did you go with?

jdTrader - It is recommended to change rotors every 2 pad changes unless the rotor has issues. Most people just change them both because of convenience
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Thanks for your input! I did indeed clean and lube the retaining pins as they were BONE dry! I went with EBC Redstuff pads> I had them on my G35 and my M3 with great results. They have more initial bite which I like and the dust must be at least 75% less than stock.
 
I think its very hard to beat OEM pads especially a akebono/brembo OEM pad in terms of bite. On the g35 with brembos many went with project mu. But that's mainly due to price.

Dust is another story, its a by product of your pads actually doing a good job.

TapaTalking
 
TurTLeG said:
I think its very hard to beat OEM pads especially a akebono/brembo OEM pad in terms of bite. On the g35 with brembos many went with project mu. But that's mainly due to price.

Dust is another story, its a by product of your pads actually doing a good job.

TapaTalking
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This could be debated forever! I hear what you are saying, but there are very good aftermarket pads on the market. I have had aftermarket pads on cars for years and years. The better initial bite with these EBC pads are immediately noticeable compared to the Akebono stock pads. Sure you can't go wrong with OE pads, but there are many excellent alternatives. I am still using the brake in portion of these pads but so far I am quite impressed. These things stop on a dime and have excellent feel. I will post an update after a thousand miles or so once I know for sure I am out of the brake in period.

PS: These pads so far are silent which kind of goes against the norm of noise during brake in.
 
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I have about 5-600 miles on these pads now, here is my short synopsis:

1. Expect dust similar to the stock pads during the break in part of the pad. For me, this was about 300 miles.
2. Expect them to be loud during break in. Mine did not squeal much, but the pads were loud on the rotors.
3. Once broken in, dust is at least 70% less.
4. Once broken in, the loud pads to rotor noise disapprears.
5. Excellent braking and modulation with these pads.
6. My pads are still quiet with no squeal at all after break in.

As expected, I am very happy with this simple change out. I would recommend them to anyone!
 
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