2003-2008 FX35 / FX45 Outer Tie Rod Replacement

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2003-2008 FX35 / FX45 OUTER TIE ROD REPLACEMENT

TOOLS:
SOCKETS
SOCKET WRENCH
TORQUE WRENCH
ADJUSTABLE WRENCH
BALL JOINT SEPERATOR

SAFETY:
ALWAYS USE QUALITY JACKSTANDS WHEN WORKING UNDER YOUR VEHICLE.
NEVER WEAR LOOSE FITTED CLOTHING AROUND A RUNNING MOTOR.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
PLEASE STAY SAFE.

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1. TURN YOUR WHEEL SO THAT IT FACES THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE WHEEL YOU ARE WORKING ON.
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2. RAISE YOUR CAR AND PLACE ON JACKSTANDS.

3. REMOVE YOUR WHEELS.
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4. LOOSEN THE TIE ROD LOCK NUT.
locknut.jpg

5. REMOVE THE COTTER PIN FROM THE TOP OF THE TIE ROD BALL JOINT.
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6. LOOSEN THE BALL JOINT NUT (DO NOT FULLY REMOVE THIS NUT YET).

7. USE A BALL JOINT SEPARATOR AND POP OUT THE BALL JOINT (THE BALL JOINT IS SOMEWHAT TOUGH TO REMOVE). AS YOU TIGHTEN YOUR BALL JOINT SEPARATOR THE BALL JOINT WILL EVENTUALLY POP OUT PRETTY FORCEFULLY….THIS IS WHY WE LEFT THE NUT ON.
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8. COMPLETELY REMOVE THE NUT AND POP OUT THE BALL JOINT (OUTER TIE ROD).
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9. NEXT REMOVE THE TIE ROD COUNTER CLOCK WISE. (IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO COUNT HOW MANY FULL TURNS IT TAKES TO REMOVE THE TIE ROD)!!

10. TAKE YOUR NEW TIE ROD AND SCREW IT ON THE SAME EXACT AMOUNT OF TURNS IT TOOK YOU TO REMOVE THE OLD TIE ROD (THIS WILL HELP KEEP YOUR ALIGNMENT CLOSER TO SPEC).

11. POP YOUR OUTER TIE ROD BACK IN AND TIGHTEN THE NUT AS FAR AS YOU CAN GO BY HAND WHILE PUSHING UP ON THE BALL JOINT. TAKE YOUR TORQUE WRENCH AND TIGHTEN THE NUT TO 63 FT/LBS.
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12. TIGHTEN THE TIE ROD LOCK NUT.
locknut.jpg

13. PUT IN THE NEW SUPPLIED COTTER PIN (ALWAYS USE A NEW COTTER PIN).
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14. PUT YOUR WHEELS BACK ON.

15. GET AN ALIGNMENT (MY ALIGNMENT WAS ACTUALLY STILL GOOD, BUT IT IS RECOMMENDED TO ALWAYS GET AN ALIGNMENT WHEN MESSING WITH STEERING COMPONENTS).

16. DONE.
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what is the benefit of this, i.e how do you know when you need to replace the outer tie rod?
Usually the joint gets sloppy - causing your steering to get a slight vibration.
You can check the joint by jacking up the front end until the tires are off the ground - and grab the tire/wheel as the 9 oclock and 3 oclock position - shake it and feel for play. If play - it's most likely your TRE. Could be the rack though as well - feel all joints while someone else moves the tire/wheel.
Trevor
 
48520-CG025 for the drivers side

For that part number, I'm getting:
Steering - Steering gear & linkage - Outer tie rod
Outer tie rod, fx, right - power 2003 - 2007

Isn't drivers side "left"? Wish infinitipartsusa.com gave part numbers, they only allow you to enter them.
 
Not sure, that is the part number I have on the piece in front of me. I haven't done the drivers side yet, so I still have it wrapped in the oem bag w/part number.
 
Ed, what happened to the FX for you to need replacement?

Nothing -- going a bit crazy on my suspension. Replacing most wearable parts that contains "rubber". Ball joints, rubber seats, struts, shocks, bushings, you name it.

I want the car to feel like new again, it sometimes makes noise at hitting bumps/taking corners. Kind of like me getting old and making sounds when I get up from a chair, except I can't buy new knees=). This should be nice, in a few weeks I'll pretty much have all new suspension parts.

My driver's side has a little play (jack the car up and push/pull on the wheel) vs the passenger's side, and found out it's the tie rod end to be a little loose. I never would have suspected it until Jeff pointed this out (so thanks).

Note that I don't really feel a difference right now, as I might just be used to it and it has no harm on the car or "needs" to be replaced.

Just want to keep this car for at least another 100k miles, so might as well do the "upgrades" now.
 
Sounds good Ed, nothing like a new car feel. I remember that when I was looking into upgrading this part to make it stronger like Viet had done with the 350z part. I never got around to it but may do it when the time calls for it. But I can't seem to find that link or info right now.

Edit....sorry but I was thinking of the sway bar end links and not the tie rods :embarrassed:
 
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i lifted my car today and tried the wheel moving trick. at 12 and 6 o clock position, no movement, but there is slight play at 9 and 3 o clock position. This is normal correct?
 
nice write-up

Once you remove the cotter pin and the nut on top. You can just hammer at the flat part and eventually the tie rod just drops. I did it that way to both sides of my car and it worked perfectly. Also the make sure you count how many threads are behind that inner bolt so your alignment isnt completely shot when you put everything back. A handly little trick i found out. Also always replace old cotter pins with new ones, just a general rule used by all mechanics. Hope this is helpful.

>>>sorry didnt see that line about the new cotter pin, just looked at your pictures, lol
 
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Thanks for the write-up. Doing my passenger side in the next day or so when the part arrives. Started off for work today and the wheel was like wocka, wocka, wocka, wocka... Merry Christmas! :/
 
^ did you try shaking the tire by hand? 3 --6 oclock position?
sometimes lug nuts get loose and cause exact symptoms
 
No, had the wheel off. Real obvious, worn to a thread. Was originally thinking I had thrown the wheel weights and was going to swap tires on that side. Lucky I didn't end up in a ditch.
 
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