Transmission Oil Fluid Change

Pauliekaboom

Member
Location
New York
Name
Paul Karroum
Hey Guys,
I'm approaching the time to change my Transmission Oil Fluid but searching on the forum it seems that most of you guys are getting it done at the dealership. I was wondering if anyone did it them selves. The pumps are like 8 to 15 dollars on harbor freight and EBay. I'm just not sure if there is a preferred type of pump for the job or if there are any problems I should be aware of before starting the job.
 
You don't need any pump to drain and fill the trans fluid. Simply loosen the drain plug to drain the old fluid, reinstall the plug and then refill through the trans dip stick tube with a funnel. Just make sure to fill with the same amount you drained.
 
If you have a transmission mod on your wish list, now would be the time to do it.

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:33 PM ----------

I use a transfer pump for differential fluid of a different car.
 
Lol I haven't even thought of a transmission mod yet. I guess I should do some research in that area too then


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There's a DIY on here with a lengthy discussion on what method is best for the transmission fluid. I need to do that as well.
 
I have read that thread 10 times, and I get frustrated every time, every time it seemed like there was a definitive answer the next page again muddled everything.

I just wish someone would decide the best method. I think I have finally decided I will do the Transmission fluid when I do an oil change and just drain using the plug, refill how much I drain, then the next time I do my oil change I will do the same thing again. I may even do it a third time.

I have a HUGE list of maintenance I need to get done, I am just planning on gathering all the parts/mods/fluids I need and parking the FX on stands for a couple days while I get it all done.

The List:

-Steering Wheel Trim CF wrap
-Tuck Headlight wires-Front/Rear Differential Fluid
-Transmission Fluid
-Spark Plugs
-E-Brake Adjustment
-Power Steering Fluid Swap
-Program TPMS
-Seafoam


And the list is growing at an unholy rate.
 
what is program tpms and seafoam?
As for your transmission fluid question, I had a noticable jump when first putting my car into drive shortly after I bought it, ive done two drain and fills and notice a good difference after I do it everytime, and its incredibly easy. I probably will continue to do it regularly.
 
Hey Pauliekaboom, Meme,

This is the easiest way to change the Transmission Oil without involving the dealer. I did this three times, once for each oil change. You will not be able to drain all the oil, only 1/3 of it each time. But trust me, this is the easiest guaranteed method you won't introduce air into your transmission's hydraulic lines.

Transmission Oil Change:

Parts: Drain plug gasket, transmission oil (J Matic from Nissan/Infiniti or equivalent but research if not using stock)

Tools: Measuring cup, nitrile/latex glove (unless you like to go bareback), torque wrench, socket/wrench to remove the drain plug, funnel with slim tube for refill

1. Car must be warmed up, turned off and parked on level surface (give or take)
2. Using a nitrile/latex glove, loosen the transmission drain plug, get your oil drain pan under the drain plug area, keep your hand to the side as you take the drain plug off and let whatever fluid drain. It will eventually stop, that means that's all you can drain.
3. Wipe the drain plug and the drain plug hole, put on a new crush washer and thread it back into the drain plug hole by hand.
4. Using a torque wrench, torque it to spec (I don't have the spec on me right now)
5. Pour the drained fluid into a measuring cup and measure exactly what you drained. You will need to do this a few times as approx 2-3 liters will drain. Write down what you measured.
6. Pop the hood, you can remove the engine cover if you like for more clearance (IIRC), unbolt the filler tube's dip stick with a 10mm socket, remove it completely but wipe it first
7. Holding the funnel to the filler tube, fill the new transmission fluid slowly as its a small tube.
8. Once you have refilled it with what you drained, wipe the dipstick again, place it back into the filler tube and put back the 10mm bolt. Don't bother checking the level at this point, you will not get a proper reading because there's oil on the tube's inner walls.
9. Verify you have torqued the drain plug to the right spec, make sure the filler tube is bolted back on, remove any tools from the engine bay, under the car and anything else you have done.
10. Start your car and take it for a test drive, voila!

NOTE: In the service manual, it gives another option to drain the transmission fluid. I tried this, it takes two individuals and there's a high potential that you will introduce air into the system. Let me tell you its not fun at all to get that air out of the transmission's hydraulic system. You will have issues where your engine will rev but your car will not move until some fluid pushes the air out. This took a week and flooring the car. NOT FUN!


I have read that thread 10 times, and I get frustrated every time, every time it seemed like there was a definitive answer the next page again muddled everything.

I just wish someone would decide the best method. I think I have finally decided I will do the Transmission fluid when I do an oil change and just drain using the plug, refill how much I drain, then the next time I do my oil change I will do the same thing again. I may even do it a third time.

I have a HUGE list of maintenance I need to get done, I am just planning on gathering all the parts/mods/fluids I need and parking the FX on stands for a couple days while I get it all done.

The List:

-Steering Wheel Trim CF wrap
-Tuck Headlight wires-Front/Rear Differential Fluid
-Transmission Fluid
-Spark Plugs
-E-Brake Adjustment
-Power Steering Fluid Swap
-Program TPMS
-Seafoam


And the list is growing at an unholy rate.


---------- Post added at 09:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 AM ----------

Program TPMS means programming the TPMS sensors on each wheel to the vehicle. This is done from factory unless you either swapped a sensor or changed rims and need to program the new sensors.

Seafoam is a kit you buy that you spray it into your intake and put some in the fuel tank and it cleans your engine. Someone else might want to pipe in on this, I have not done this yet.

When you say jump, do you mean to say when you shift into drive while holding the brake? What was the temperature outside and what revs did the engine have when you shifted to drive? If the engine/transmission was cold, yes the high revs will make your car jump when shifting (btw this was corrected in the 2nd gen, the engine drops in revs if it detect a gear change).


what is program tpms and seafoam?
As for your transmission fluid question, I had a noticable jump when first putting my car into drive shortly after I bought it, ive done two drain and fills and notice a good difference after I do it everytime, and its incredibly easy. I probably will continue to do it regularly.
 
Probably don't need to overthink it and just drain fill a few times. I first did a drain fill at 45K, fluid looked new. Then at 50K, I installed a new VB and that involved drain/fill + losing another quart from the pan. Again, fluid looked brand new. I don't think getting every last drop of it makes much difference. In theory, using the method of cycling through the transmission cooler will get more fluid, but I don't know if it makes much practical difference.
I have read that thread 10 times, and I get frustrated every time, every time it seemed like there was a definitive answer the next page again muddled everything.

I just wish someone would decide the best method. I think I have finally decided I will do the Transmission fluid when I do an oil change and just drain using the plug, refill how much I drain, then the next time I do my oil change I will do the same thing again. I may even do it a third time.

I have a HUGE list of maintenance I need to get done, I am just planning on gathering all the parts/mods/fluids I need and parking the FX on stands for a couple days while I get it all done.

The List:

-Steering Wheel Trim CF wrap
-Tuck Headlight wires-Front/Rear Differential Fluid
-Transmission Fluid
-Spark Plugs
-E-Brake Adjustment
-Power Steering Fluid Swap
-Program TPMS
-Seafoam


And the list is growing at an unholy rate.
 
If you could get it all out in one shot would be nice, like the dealer does. But two times should be fine, but you can base it by the first change. If the red fluid has no black particles in it, you'll be okay. If it does, rinse and repeat lol. Key point, warm it up first.

Sent from my SGH-I747
 
What about coolant flush, plugs, belts? Your doing all that, just might do it all at once and get it over with. :wink:

Oh forgot to copy that portion of the list over. I am doing a Weapon R coolant overflow tank, so the coolant will be changed as well. I am also doing a UR pulley kit and it comes with new gates belts.

I am hoping to wait to do all this till it gets a little warmer, then I can pull the valve covers when doing the plugs and replace the seal and have them painted.

what is program tpms and seafoam?

See post below by Phantom.


Program TPMS means programming the TPMS sensors on each wheel to the vehicle. This is done from factory unless you either swapped a sensor or changed rims and need to program the new sensors.

Seafoam is a kit you buy that you spray it into your intake and put some in the fuel tank and it cleans your engine. Someone else might want to pipe in on this, I have not done this yet.

Here is the thread where Seafoam is discussed in depth:

https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=5976-VQ35DE-FX35-Sea-Foam?highlight=seafoam

I need to program my TPMS cause I have not done it since I switched over to my winter wheels, but now it has been so long, that I might as well just keep checking manually and then I won't have to redo the process when I put my summer shoes back on...:disapointed:

Probably don't need to overthink it and just drain fill a few times. I first did a drain fill at 45K, fluid looked new. Then at 50K, I installed a new VB and that involved drain/fill + losing another quart from the pan. Again, fluid looked brand new. I don't think getting every last drop of it makes much difference. In theory, using the method of cycling through the transmission cooler will get more fluid, but I don't know if it makes much practical difference.

Yeah, I think that is the best way, you avoid getting air into the system as Phantom pointed out, you also avoid shocking the Tranny with new fluid.

The only downside is that you have to do the work twice, which is why I plan to do it when I do my oil changes because I will already be out there wrenching.

If you could get it all out in one shot would be nice, like the dealer does. But two times should be fine, but you can base it by the first change. If the red fluid has no black particles in it, you'll be okay. If it does, rinse and repeat lol. Key point, warm it up first.

You need to watch out because fluid can be clean, but it could have lost its lubricating element. I read a really long article about this, unfortunately I can't find it now, but it went into the chemistry behind some fluids which may still look very good, but have lost their useful chemical element. The article was broken up by different types of fluids and came to the conclusion that this could happen just over time, or also during the course of regular wear, but one thing remained steady, some fluids continued to look new if replaced at the correct intervals (this is important, more on this in a second), but if you wait much longer to replace them they would not be doing their job correctly. Now some fluids they took a sample and since it looked new they left it in the car, and they found that after only a fraction more miles, the fluid would start to cloud or turn black. This was because the components that were being protected by the fluids were now seeing a lot of added wear because the fluid was not doing its job fully.

TL;DR : Replace your fluid at the correct intervals, even if it looks new.

Thanks for the write up. That is exactly the route I was planning to go. I figure if I do it twice I should get enough of the fluid swapped, but if I have enough fluid left over to do it a 3rd time I probably will.
 
Last edited:
Hey meme, for the valve covers, which seals are you replacing? The ones around the spark plugs or the one that goes around the covers edge?

Sent from my SGH-I747
 
On the VQ engine, the seal around the spark plug well cannot be replaced. Its sandwiched between the inner and outer valve cover. If you have oil pooled in one of the spark plug wells you will have to replace the seal around the edge of the cover.
 
FWIW, on the G35 forum, they found out that you can use the valve covers from a Maxima. Cheaper and easier to get than the RWD ones. I think it involved a tiny bit of mods.
 
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