Gas Gauge Level Fix

la_fx35

Staff
Moderator
Location
Chicago
Car
2017 QX70S
Name
Andy
Perform this DIY at your own risk.
Please DO NOT have open flames near the gas tank and work in a well ventilated area.

As your FX age, the gas gauge gradually become less accurate to the amount of gas left in the tank.
This DIY will fix the gas gauge problem.

Update 07/12/11:
I would recommend to do this fix when your tank is close to empty to avoid
fuel continually spraying out of the fuel line as you disconnect it from pump.

Tools: Pencil with eraser top, pliers, screw drivers (philips and flat), 8 mm socket and ratchet.
001.jpg


To begin, remove the rear seat by pulling on the black ring at the bottom edge of the seat and
lift the seat. Remove the seat and the flimsy insulation sheet.
002.jpg


To remove the access door to the gas pump assembly and sender, use a philips screw driver and
turn the black plastic locks in the direction imprinted on the lock.
I find using a pliers is much easier than a screw driver
003.jpg


Start with the sender unit located on the driver side rear seat.
Undo the six 8 mm bolts, unplug the electrical connector,
remove the fuel sender retainer ring and lift the send unit out of the tank.
004.jpg


Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.
005.jpg


In this pic the part in the red circle is dirty. The part in the green circle has already been cleaned.
To clean, using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.
006.jpg


All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on.
Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug
the electrical connector back and put the access door back.
Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the
access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.
007.jpg


Now start to work on the send unit that is attached to the fuel pump.
The fuel pump is located on the passenger side rear seat.
To removing the fuel line, squeeze the white tab and pull on the fuel line to separate them.
There will be a little squirt of fuel when they become apart. Have some rags handy!

Update 07/12/11:
If your tank is full, you may need a cup/pan to catch the fuel as it will continually dripping
from the disconnected fuel line.

Unplug the electrical connector. Undo the six 8 mm bolts to remove the fuel pump retainer ring.
Note, when you undo the last couple of bolts, hold the retainer ring as the fuel pump will try to pop out of the tank.
008.jpg


Carefully lift and work the pump assembly out of the tank.
Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.
009.jpg


Dirty sender leads. Again using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.
010.jpg


All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on.
Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug
the electrical connector back and put the access door back.
Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the
access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.
011.jpg

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Last edited:
Wow, nice write-up! :tup:

How does the sender units get dirty to begin with? Is that part actually dipped into the gas tank?
 
Last edited:
Wow!!! Andy awesome DIY. Dealer would had charged an arm and a leg and just day the whole unit is bad and needs replacing.

I wonder why this is such a problem on FXs versus other cars?
 
Wow, nice write-up! :tup:

How does the sender units get dirty to begin with? Is that part actually dipped into the gas tank?

There is a piece looks like copper attached to the arm of the floater and it glide over the silver leads. My guess would be that the copper and silver leads causes a chemical reaction as they soak in gas for a long time and leave the black deposit?

Yes, the sender unit is dipped into the gas and only expose to air when the tank is very low.
 
handy andy strikes again! Great DIY! It will be very handy when out of warranty. The dealer has either replaced or cleaned my fuel sending units at least 3 times since 2008...
 
Are the sender leads the same thing on both sides, like it takes two measurements on either side of the tank to average together? Does this only affect the accuracy of the fuel gauge? Or, do the contacts help with fuel delivery efficiency at all?
 
Are the sender leads the same thing on both sides, like it takes two measurements on either side of the tank to average together? Does this only affect the accuracy of the fuel gauge? Or, do the contacts help with fuel delivery efficiency at all?
From the look, the leads on both send unit is the same. There is little piece of copper at the end of floater control arm that glide across the leads. There is two wires (black & white) go into the sender unit. I'm pretty sure that is just to register the fuel level and probably it an average of the two senders is begin displayed on the cluster gas gauge. I highly doubt that it has anything to do with the fuel delivery efficiency. The fuel pump will most like be the best component in respect to fuel delivery efficiency.
 
Gee no wonder this guy is a record breaking MOTM. It's a very useful DIY. thanks
 
Thanks guys, I hope this DIY will help those that have the same issue with the gas gauge for the longest time. Now we have a choice other then going to the stealer to get them replaced. Of course, you can just buy a new sender and replace them too if you don't feel like cleaning them. A new sender unit is $84.30 a piece.

Hahahaa, it's so nice to look at the gas gauge and knowing exactly how much I have left in the tank correctly for very first time! :smug:
 
do they sell the senders separate? I know they did not a few years ago, the right side sender alone required buying a whole fuel pump assy for ~$300. the left one was in the ~$100 range...
 
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