Front & Rear Brake Job

Brake Replacement

  • Total voters
    51
easy to do yourself.

But some main things you need:

1. Brake piston compressor
2. Jack stands
3. Floor Jack
4. Breaker Bar
5. Basic socket set
6. Brake lube and pads ofcoarse


Pretty easy job. I could do them myself in half an hour.
 
Iv always worked on my previous cars when it came to changing brakes, struts, and other components, but they all have been sedans plus the amount of technology in the FX i just wanted to be sure its a simple DIY before I come across any complications.
 
You do brake jobs on the side now Aaron? :tongue:

Fire0nic3FX said:
easy to do yourself.

But some main things you need:

1. Brake piston compressor
2. Jack stands
3. Floor Jack
4. Breaker Bar
5. Basic socket set
6. Brake lube and pads ofcoarse


Pretty easy job. I could do them myself in half an hour.
Click to expand...
 
I started out with getting pads and having them resurfaced. After resurfacing I had a horrible vibration. I thought i did something wrong, took everything off and back on again... Turned out there was a minor warp that got worse in the resurface.
I then got some rotorpros, which are drilled and slotted. smooth, and look much better than the originals. If you have any inkling there may be a warp in the rotors I would skip the resurface and get the set from rotorpros. they include pads on top of rotors for cheap.
 
You're in Cali, but for anyone else ordering from RotorPros, be sure to ask for the premium blanks they drill/slot. They'll use the generics otherwise. The premiums are bettter coated for those in states that use salt/chemicals.
 
So I tried doing my rears finally, and when I try to pull the rotors off they don't budge. [I have the e brake off.]
I guess the e brake is like a drum brake, is there additional step needed for that? I see a little rubber cap with a screw behind. Not sure what that is for.
Or do I just need to bang on it really hard?

Sent from my cm_tenderloin 4
 
You have to remove the rubber plug. Using a flat head screw driver and turn the screw upward to collapse the shoe a bit will be must easier to take the rotor off. When use the ebrake often, it cuts into the rotor and creates a lip that a lot of time it really hard to slide the rotor off because the shoe will automatically expands to just rub against the rotor. Remember to expands the shoe by turning the screw downward just enough that the rotor cannot be easily slide off.
 
What Andy said :-) Did this to the wife's car a few months back. The dill hole that did the last brake job didn't align the hole with the adjustable screw... that just made my day lol



TapaTalkin'
 
So I turned the screw and that piece fell off :( now I think I'm really screwed. I guess ill try banging the hell out of the rotor to see if I can get it off that way. It seems the brake is now more engaged than it was before.

---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:37 PM ----------

Ok so I figured out the thing youre supposed to turn is the adjuster at the top, not the screw that is on the side. Really at a loss as to how to get this thing off now.

Is there a way to get the guard thing off so I can properly bang on the rotor?
 
I got it off. after disassembling the insides of the ebrake on accident, and then finally banging like a madman the rotor came off. I think the problem was me using a rubber mallot instead of a hammer.
 
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