Code: P0340

S

SiMpLyMoDiFiEd

Member
Location
Houston, TX
Name
Tyson
Ok so some may know I just bought this FX and on my way home the Christmas tree of lights came on and car died. I ran code and got P0340 cam position sensor bank 1. I have replaced both cam and the crank position sensors, battery and oil. Bank 1 sensor and crank have been replaced twice. I guess I will move to replacing the vtc on right side first then left if still nothing. But I'm at the point to where Im about to give up and cut my loses. I'm tired of spending money and it's not getting me any where. Please anyone have any idea please share

thanks
Tyson
 
Check the socket that connects to the sensor for rust inside or fray on the wire. I replaced a sensor once and it failed within a week... Turned out to be the rusted pin inside the connector.. Got a pig tail to splice in a new sensor connector.
 
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Ok a little update. I checked all plugs, pulled the VTSs off and apart, cleaned them and reinstalled them. I left the battery disconnected for two days. Today was first day to drive it and it started a little rough but no lights and seems to be running well. I did notice the plug for the CPS Bank1 was/will not lock onto sensor. I will start searching for a junk yard that I can go get a pigtail but I wonder if the vibrations from motor and driving is causing it to lose connection!?
 
Im actually not sure if they made a manual one or not. But there was a time i got a nissan 350z on wich they had replaced absolutely everything including a timing chain job twice wich i also did & the same code woudnt dissapear. It turned out to be a flywheel installed one hole ahead causing the ckp to read improperly.
 
Hmmmmmm. Well I didn't make it to work today! LOL. And it did something totally different as it died. It acted as if I was giving it gas and letting it off at idle it was fine. Now I can sit here and let it cool down and if like in the past it will start.
 
I forgot to mention you know the hole the sensors goes in there is the end of the camshaft & has little notches on it that the sensor is supposed to read. If those are really dirty with carboned up oil or sludge youll have that problem. In regards to that idle you could try an throtle & idle relearn im pretty sure i saw a diy for that here somewhere.
 
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Yeah cam window. I think I figured it out though. This was first time I drove with this battery and it's completely dead. I had altenator checked and they said it was good but that it obviously wrong.
 
A little update here. I found out that my altenator was bad. Even after it had been tested. What was happening with it is once it got hot it stopped charging the battery and running the system so it was draining the battery and the car would die. Then when you go to start it battery would be completely shot. Wait hour to two hours to let battery recover and it would start again. But since I have installed the new alternator I haven't driv the car LOL it took me 4 and a half hours to drive 15 miles when it all happened.
 
Ok more of an update..... Pulled the passenger valve cover and found the cam windows pretty nasty. So I cleaned them out and also found that some idiot cross threaded the back left VC bolt so I ended up having to break that tab off and then still couldn't get bolt out. I will have to pull the head one day to fix it. But put the VC back on along with everything else. Let the car sit over night without the battery hooked up and this is what I got the next evening when I got home.

First video

View attachment 304750

second.
View attachment 304751

Third.
Will not upload LOL
 
Yeah, I had issues a week after changing the sensor, turned out to be my connector. It's been over 2k miles and seems solid

If you want a piggy tail for the cam sensor hit up (wiringspecialties.com/vq35de1.html)
I believe it was the black connector for the cams and green for the crank.

Simply cut the old connector off, strip back some wires and crimp the new one in. You will need a good crimper and 12-18 gauge heat shrinkable butt connectors.
Under $40 for everything.
 
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WiND DANCE said:
Yeah, I had issues a week after changing the sensor, turned out to be my connector. It's been over 2k miles and seems solid

If you want a piggy tail for the cam sensor hit up (wiringspecialties.com/vq35de1.html)
I believe it was the black connector for the cams and green for the crank.

Simply cut the old connector off, strip back some wires and crimp the new one in. You will need a good crimper and 12-18 gauge heat shrinkable butt connectors.
Under $40 for everything.
Click to expand...


Sweet I will look into it I was thinking it might be that myself but never knew where to get it. One thing I don't like is that both cam position sensor click into place but the crack doesn't! And Im talking about the sensors not plugs.
 
Yeah the rubber ring on the cam sensors are snug and will click into place. I did take a dap of oil and lube the ring before hand, I'm sort of use to it like oil filters. If it turns out to be the connector, just make sure to heat shrink to prevent further problems.

GL with the repair! :good:
 
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WiND DANCE said:
Yeah the rubber ring on the cam sensors are snug and will click into place. I did take a dap of oil and lube the ring before hand, I'm sort of use to it like oil filters. If it turns out to be the connector, just make sure to heat shrink to prevent further problems.

GL with the repair! :good:
Click to expand...


Well i I ordered the parts this morning. Hopefully it solves my problem so I can move onto making it more me instead of just trying to get it running right. There were 3 options I ordered the pigtail option but the pic for that option wasn't the same pic that was default for the page when you first open so hopefully it's right.



Also does anyone know where I can get the power steering sensor? The previous owner has seemed to have ripped the plug off the sensor. And it's just hanging there. Only place I can find it is at dealer and I really don't wanna go there LOL
 
Looks like someone has already had problems with that pigtail. Possibly from rodents?

Looks like someone botched a repair job on it.
 
Looks like a bad job prior, try to get as clean of a cut as you can with some extra auto grade wire. The pigtails aren't very long so you might need to extend it for a clean connection. Heat shrink butt connectors and a good crimped would be your friend as I don't trust solder in such a high heat area.
 
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Yeah I cut it all the way back and added wire. Got everything heat shrinked and started the car. It idles fine for a few mins then drops so low almost dies then back up with no lights and never dies. Turn it off and back on same thing but lights are on now. I'm getting so annoyed!! A tech at Nissan said to check all relays and nox sensor that they have caused these issues before. I'm just tried of spending money.
 
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